How You Can Help

The best way for people to help is knowing about the problem and keeping your eyes open! Report suspicious behavior, volunteer at Pit Bull rescue centers and have a respect for the breed overall. There is nothing wrong with the dogs, just the people who abuse them in such horrific ways!

I will continue to let you all know how you can help and keep you updated on the situation at hand, because it is not getting better, it is only getting worse and someone needs to do something about it!!!

More Off the Chain

I purchased the entire documentary, but the best way I can share it with all of you is by sharing these clips of videos. This is a longer clip that gives a better idea of what the documentary is all about!

Armitage's Care of Dogs Afterwards

The poor, injured dogs that make it through the fight then have to go back into the hands of their owners that forced them into the pit. It is at this time, especially with the winning dog, that the owner acts as if he really cares about the life and well being of the dog. In reality all he cares about is the dog recovering quickly so he can be fought again and hopefully win more money for the disgusting owner.

Armitage is a perfect example of this, he gives tips in his book about “Care Of The Dog After Battle,” it is quite interesting to hear people like this use the word “care” when speaking about the dogs that they brutally torture. It is quite interesting to see what he thinks will help these dogs after being torn apart.

If your dog is cut up or has gone through a hard battle, wrap him up well in a blanket so that he will not catch cold, then take him to a warm room, making sure that the room is free of drafts. Give him a warm bath, putting a little creolin disinfectant in the water and bathe the dog good. Then rub him thoroughly dry. If he is cut up, drop a little iodine in each cut, offer him a drink of water, but do not feed him until the following day. Before feeding him anything, give him two table-spoonsful of Pluto water in a half glass of water, and repeat this for 2 or 3 days. This will help pass off all blood and hair and stuff he swallowed while in the battle. Feed him a good grade of raw milk at one meal and beef broth at the next, a little at a time, about 5 hours apart for at least 3 days. If at this time he is still alive, you can almost gamble he will pull through safely, but be sure and give him all the fresh water he wants, this will help to prevent fever developing.

The most shocking part about this is how casual he talks about it, especially about how after a few days of taking good care of the dog; IF he is still alive he will be fine. Why do these people have absolutely no consideration as to whether or not these dogs live or die? It is absolutely disgusting. Everyone should always make sure that their dog is comfortable and they should ALWAYS have all the fresh water they need and want. These people are absolutely unbelievable and disgusting!!!

What Happens to the Dogs Afterwards?

After a fight most of the dogs are in horrible shape, they have been mauling each other for close to an hour, they are all bloody and torn up, that is if they are even both alive. There are many people who fight dogs until one is dead and sometimes it just happens due to all of the injuries that have been inflicted. There are also times when they are in such bad shape after losing and their owners are angry with them for losing, that they will kill them. As was the case with the dogs fought on Michael Vick’s property, the losers were tortured and killed, either being drowned, electrocuted, or any other appalling viscous act that these horrible people could think up.

As for the dogs that are around when a police raid takes place and are confiscated, they are still not safe. There is always a long period of time between confiscating the dog and the trial and conviction of the owners. In the mean time it is virtually impossible for a shelter to take in a large amount of dogs at one time, without affecting the ability for a shelter to function as it normally would, including being able to accommodate other animals in need. Not to mention the cost that goes into helping and housing these abused seized dogs. Usually it comes down to someone claiming it would be “more practical and humane to euthanize or re-home the confiscated animals prior to the trial.” However the laws depend on the region and sometimes they are not legally able to start the re-housing process because the dogs are still technically property of the defendant.

Once the trial has happened a whole new process needs to begin for the dogs, which also takes a long time. They must undergo various personality tests to determine if the dog would even be suitable to be placed into a home. If there is any sign of a bad temperament the dogs will be euthanized. The fortunate ones that are not able to pass the test are occasionally permitted to go stay at a shelter that specializes in victims of dog fighting and severe abuse. The ones who do pass the personality tests are passed onto shelters, which are then responsible for placing the dogs in a safe home and making sure that they are properly trained and healthy.

It is incredibly sad that these dogs who ended up in the wrong hands in the first place are later punished for the way that the abuse that they have endured and the way they were used and treated. It was not the dogs that chose to fight; they should be given a second chance.

Most importantly, people need to be open-minded of the lucky dogs that are able to be re-housed, they can make amazing pets once they are introduced to what love is. These poor abused pups are forever grateful to those who show them a happy life and love. There are plenty of organizations around that people can go to rescue these dogs or even just go and play with them and give them some joy.

Off the Chain

Rules of The Game

PIT RULES

USED FOR CONTESTS DECIDING

THE GAMER OF TWO DOGS

(GAME = PLUCKY, UNYIELDING IN MANNER,

READY AND WILLING)

Rule 1: The principals shall select a referee who is familiar with the rules and who is satisfactory to both sides. The referee will then appoint his Timekeeper. Each handler will select a man to act as his chief second or cornerman, whose duties are to wash the opponent's dog, and to remain near this dog's corner as an observer.

Rule 2: Each handler is to furnish two clean towels and a suitable blanket, to be used by his opponent. Either handler may demand that the opposing handler and his cornerman bare their arms to the elbows; also the handler may taste his opponent's dog's water before or after the contest (up until the referee has rendered his decision on the contest).

Rule 3: No water, sponges, towels or any other accessories are allowed in the pit at any time, except the referee who shall have in his possession an adequate breaking stick and a pencil; also a copy of these rules. The pit shall not be less than 14 feet each way, whenever possible, with a canvas-covered floor, upon which has been painted or chalked on, 12.5 feet apart, and with a center-line half way between the scratch-lines.

Rule 4: The referee shall toss a coin to be called by the handlers. The winner of the toss shall decide which dog shall be washed first and also have the choice of corners.

Rule 5: The dogs shall be washed at pit-side in warm water and some approved washing powders and then rinsed. The first dog to be washed shall be brought in and held in the tub by his handler and washed by the opposing cornerman. When pronounced clean by the referee, the dog shall be rinsed clean in a separate tub of warm water and toweled dry as possible, then wrapped in the blanket provided and carried to his appointed corner by his handler and accompanied by the man who washed him. These are the only two persons allowed near this dog until the dogs are Let Go. The other dog shall now be brought in and held in the tub by his handler and washed(in the same water) by the opposing cornerman. When this dog is pronounced clean by the referee and rinsed clean and toweled dry, he shall then be carried to his corner by his handler and accompanied by the man who washed him.

Rule 6: The referee shall now ask "Are both corners ready?" If so, "Cornermen, out of the pit"..."Face your dogs"..."Let Go." The timekeeper shall note the time and write it

down for future reference.

Rule 7: Any dog who jumps the pit is automatically the loser of the contest and no scratches are necessary, and no dog is required or allowed to scratch to a dead dog. The live dog is the winner.

Rule 8: Should either dog become fanged, the referee shall instruct the handlers to take hold of their dogs and try to hold them still so the handler can try to unfang his dog. If this isn't possible, the referee shall separate the dogs with the proper breaking stick and then unfang the dog using a pencil. The referee will then order the handlers to set their dogs down near the center of the Pit and approximately two feet apart. The referee will then order "Let Go." This in no way constitutes a turn or a handle and has no bearing of

the future scratches.

Rule 9: This is to be a fair scratch-in-turn contest until the dogs quit fighting, then rule 13 shall take over. The first dog to turn must scratch first; thereafter they are to scratch alternately(regardless of which dog turns) until one dog fails to scratch and thereby loses the contest.

Rule 10: To be a fair turn, the dog accused of turning must turn his head and shoulders and his front feet away from the opponent and regardless of whether or not the dogs are otherwise touching.

Rule 11: The referee shall call all turns, although either handler may ask for a turn on either dog. If the referee rules there has been a turn, he will instruct the handlers to "pick up free of holds" as soon as possible, and should either dog accidentally get a hold again, the handlers shall set the dogs down immediately and make a continued effort to pick up the dogs, free of holds. When picked up, the dogs must be taken to their respective corners and faced away from their opponent. The Timekeeper shall note the time and take up the count(not out loud) and also the referee shall notify the handler whose dog must scratch.

Rule 12: At 25 seconds, the Timekeeper shall call out "Get Ready." At these instructions each handler must toe his scratch-line and face his dog toward his opponent with his dog's head and shoulders showing fair from between his handler's legs, and the dog's four feet on the canvas floor. At the 30 seconds, the Timekeeper calls out "Let Go." and the handler whose dog must scratch must instantly take his hands away from all contact with his dog and also release all leg pressure from against the dog's body. And the dog must instantly start across and the handler must remain behind his scratch-line until his dog has completed his scratch or the referee has ruled upon it. There is no time limit on the time required to complete this scratch. But, when released at the words "Let Go," the dog must start across at his opponent. He may waver from direct line, fall down, crawl ... drag or push himself across, so long as he makes a continued effort and DOES NOT HESITATE OR STOP until he has reached out and touched his opponent. The opposing handler may release his dog any time he sees fit after the order to "Let Go"; however, he

must do so as soon as the dogs have touched each other.

Rule 12A: This is an alternate rule for those handlers who wish to have their dogs counted out in the corner. It is the same in all respects as Rule 12, except that after 30 seconds, when the Timekeeper calls out "Let Go," the referee shall count our loud, at as near one-second intervals as possible, ONE...TWO...TIME(three seconds), and the dog must be out of his corner and on his way before the referee calls "time," or lose.

Rule 13: If the dogs have apparently quit fighting, whether they are helpless, tired out or curred out, and regardless of whether both dogs are down or one dog is down and the other dog is standing over him, but neither dog has a hold, the referee shall ask it they are willing to scratch-it-out to a win or not. If so, they shall proceed to do so, but if either handler is unwilling, then the referee shall instruct the Timekeeper to note the time and call time in two minutes. If either dog breaks time, then nothing has changed, but if, at the end of the two minutes, the dogs are in the same relative positions and neither dog has a hold, the referee shall order the handlers to handle(PICK UP FREE OF HOLDS) their dogs. When picked up, the dogs shall be taken to their corners and the corner procedure is the same as in a normally called turn and handle. If there have been no previous turns or handles to establish the order of scratching, the dog who has been the longest without a hold(usually the down dog) to be scratched first, then, as soon as free of holds, the dogs shall be picked up and the other dog scratched. Should one dog fail or refuse his scratch, then the dog who failed shall lose the contest. If both dogs fail to scratch, the referee shall call it a no contest, but should both dogs make their initial scratches, the handlers by mutual agreement may ask the referee for a draw decision. The referee will then rule it a draw. Otherwise the contest shall continue, but in this manner: any time the dogs are not in holds and not fighting, the referee shall order the dogs to be handled and scratched alternately until one dog fails to scratch and thereby loses. No attention is paid to turns(after rule 13 is invoked) except as a possible chance to handle. THE REFEREE HAS FULL AUTHORITY AND HIS DECISION IF FINAL IN ALL MATTERS.

Rule 14: Fouls that will be just cause for losing a contest:

A. To leave the pit, with or without the dog before the referee has ruled.

B. To receive anything from outside the pit, or allow anyone outside the pit to touch or assist the dog.

C. To push, drum, throw or spank, or in any way assist a dog across his scratch-line, except by encouraging him by voice.

D. To step across a scratch-line before the dog has completed his scratch or the referee has ruled on it.

E. To stomp on the pit floor or kick the pit sides, yell at of give orders to the opponent's dog, or(in the referee's opinion) do anything to distract or interfere with either dog while scratching or fighting to affect the outcome of the contest.

F. To interfere with the opposing handler or touch either dog until the referee gives an order to handle the dogs.

G. To use a "Rub," "Poison," or "Hypo" o neither dog.

Rule 15: If there should be any outside interference before the contest has been concluded, the referee has full authority to call it a "NO CONTEST" and shall name the time and place the contest is to be resumed and fought out to a referee's decision.(The same referee shall preside.) Also, the referee shall insist that the dogs be washed and weighed (in the referee's presence), and the dogs shall weigh at the weights specified in the original articles of agreement, and to do this as many times as necessary to conclude the contest.

Specific Abuses of Training

It is clear through the description of the various forms of training and through the descriptions of game testing that the process that these dogs are forced into in order to make their owners morning is just as cruel and abusive as the act of forcing them to fight. Especially when you consider that the initial portion of their training is in fact forcing them to fight.

The treadmill, sadly enough is probably the most humane method of training these dogs. Though it is still far from ok, I don’t know about you, but I would not be so happy if someone were to force me to run on a treadmill for a long period of time, especially if I was not able to speak out when I could not longer go on.

The catmill that is described earlier seems incredibly dangerous, as do many other the methods, I would be curious to know how many dogs end up choking or strangling themselves in such a device.

The springpole is really horrible, forcing a dog to jump at something and having it actually grab it so it can then dangle in the air. That couldn’t possibly do anything but harm the dog’s jaw.

The flirtpole is along the same lines as the others, it is just cruel.

The chains is by far one of the worst methods of training mentioned, I do not see how that would help the dogs performance in the least. It is cruel and viscious, this is extremely dangerous to the dogs.

The weights, very similar to the chains are incredibly dangerous and harsh on the dogs. To be permanently attached to a large amount of weights cannot be at all healthy for the dogs!!! Would you want to have a large weight tied around your neck at all times, especially while you were being forced to run lapse??

The bait, as with most of the other forms of training, is incredibly inhumane, it is not only abuse of the dogs but of many other animals as well. These people think that other animals are completely disposable and can be fed to their dogs and killed for their benefit. It is absolutely disgusting!

As for vitamins and supplements, animals are not meant to have things like that injected into them. If you are a loving pet owner and you need to give your dog vitamins to help it recover from an illness, that is one thing, but to make them “perform better” in some psycho’s eyes that are using the dogs for a completely horrific purpose in the first place, it is completely unacceptable.