How You Can Help

The best way for people to help is knowing about the problem and keeping your eyes open! Report suspicious behavior, volunteer at Pit Bull rescue centers and have a respect for the breed overall. There is nothing wrong with the dogs, just the people who abuse them in such horrific ways!

I will continue to let you all know how you can help and keep you updated on the situation at hand, because it is not getting better, it is only getting worse and someone needs to do something about it!!!

More Off the Chain

I purchased the entire documentary, but the best way I can share it with all of you is by sharing these clips of videos. This is a longer clip that gives a better idea of what the documentary is all about!

Armitage's Care of Dogs Afterwards

The poor, injured dogs that make it through the fight then have to go back into the hands of their owners that forced them into the pit. It is at this time, especially with the winning dog, that the owner acts as if he really cares about the life and well being of the dog. In reality all he cares about is the dog recovering quickly so he can be fought again and hopefully win more money for the disgusting owner.

Armitage is a perfect example of this, he gives tips in his book about “Care Of The Dog After Battle,” it is quite interesting to hear people like this use the word “care” when speaking about the dogs that they brutally torture. It is quite interesting to see what he thinks will help these dogs after being torn apart.

If your dog is cut up or has gone through a hard battle, wrap him up well in a blanket so that he will not catch cold, then take him to a warm room, making sure that the room is free of drafts. Give him a warm bath, putting a little creolin disinfectant in the water and bathe the dog good. Then rub him thoroughly dry. If he is cut up, drop a little iodine in each cut, offer him a drink of water, but do not feed him until the following day. Before feeding him anything, give him two table-spoonsful of Pluto water in a half glass of water, and repeat this for 2 or 3 days. This will help pass off all blood and hair and stuff he swallowed while in the battle. Feed him a good grade of raw milk at one meal and beef broth at the next, a little at a time, about 5 hours apart for at least 3 days. If at this time he is still alive, you can almost gamble he will pull through safely, but be sure and give him all the fresh water he wants, this will help to prevent fever developing.

The most shocking part about this is how casual he talks about it, especially about how after a few days of taking good care of the dog; IF he is still alive he will be fine. Why do these people have absolutely no consideration as to whether or not these dogs live or die? It is absolutely disgusting. Everyone should always make sure that their dog is comfortable and they should ALWAYS have all the fresh water they need and want. These people are absolutely unbelievable and disgusting!!!

What Happens to the Dogs Afterwards?

After a fight most of the dogs are in horrible shape, they have been mauling each other for close to an hour, they are all bloody and torn up, that is if they are even both alive. There are many people who fight dogs until one is dead and sometimes it just happens due to all of the injuries that have been inflicted. There are also times when they are in such bad shape after losing and their owners are angry with them for losing, that they will kill them. As was the case with the dogs fought on Michael Vick’s property, the losers were tortured and killed, either being drowned, electrocuted, or any other appalling viscous act that these horrible people could think up.

As for the dogs that are around when a police raid takes place and are confiscated, they are still not safe. There is always a long period of time between confiscating the dog and the trial and conviction of the owners. In the mean time it is virtually impossible for a shelter to take in a large amount of dogs at one time, without affecting the ability for a shelter to function as it normally would, including being able to accommodate other animals in need. Not to mention the cost that goes into helping and housing these abused seized dogs. Usually it comes down to someone claiming it would be “more practical and humane to euthanize or re-home the confiscated animals prior to the trial.” However the laws depend on the region and sometimes they are not legally able to start the re-housing process because the dogs are still technically property of the defendant.

Once the trial has happened a whole new process needs to begin for the dogs, which also takes a long time. They must undergo various personality tests to determine if the dog would even be suitable to be placed into a home. If there is any sign of a bad temperament the dogs will be euthanized. The fortunate ones that are not able to pass the test are occasionally permitted to go stay at a shelter that specializes in victims of dog fighting and severe abuse. The ones who do pass the personality tests are passed onto shelters, which are then responsible for placing the dogs in a safe home and making sure that they are properly trained and healthy.

It is incredibly sad that these dogs who ended up in the wrong hands in the first place are later punished for the way that the abuse that they have endured and the way they were used and treated. It was not the dogs that chose to fight; they should be given a second chance.

Most importantly, people need to be open-minded of the lucky dogs that are able to be re-housed, they can make amazing pets once they are introduced to what love is. These poor abused pups are forever grateful to those who show them a happy life and love. There are plenty of organizations around that people can go to rescue these dogs or even just go and play with them and give them some joy.

Off the Chain

Rules of The Game

PIT RULES

USED FOR CONTESTS DECIDING

THE GAMER OF TWO DOGS

(GAME = PLUCKY, UNYIELDING IN MANNER,

READY AND WILLING)

Rule 1: The principals shall select a referee who is familiar with the rules and who is satisfactory to both sides. The referee will then appoint his Timekeeper. Each handler will select a man to act as his chief second or cornerman, whose duties are to wash the opponent's dog, and to remain near this dog's corner as an observer.

Rule 2: Each handler is to furnish two clean towels and a suitable blanket, to be used by his opponent. Either handler may demand that the opposing handler and his cornerman bare their arms to the elbows; also the handler may taste his opponent's dog's water before or after the contest (up until the referee has rendered his decision on the contest).

Rule 3: No water, sponges, towels or any other accessories are allowed in the pit at any time, except the referee who shall have in his possession an adequate breaking stick and a pencil; also a copy of these rules. The pit shall not be less than 14 feet each way, whenever possible, with a canvas-covered floor, upon which has been painted or chalked on, 12.5 feet apart, and with a center-line half way between the scratch-lines.

Rule 4: The referee shall toss a coin to be called by the handlers. The winner of the toss shall decide which dog shall be washed first and also have the choice of corners.

Rule 5: The dogs shall be washed at pit-side in warm water and some approved washing powders and then rinsed. The first dog to be washed shall be brought in and held in the tub by his handler and washed by the opposing cornerman. When pronounced clean by the referee, the dog shall be rinsed clean in a separate tub of warm water and toweled dry as possible, then wrapped in the blanket provided and carried to his appointed corner by his handler and accompanied by the man who washed him. These are the only two persons allowed near this dog until the dogs are Let Go. The other dog shall now be brought in and held in the tub by his handler and washed(in the same water) by the opposing cornerman. When this dog is pronounced clean by the referee and rinsed clean and toweled dry, he shall then be carried to his corner by his handler and accompanied by the man who washed him.

Rule 6: The referee shall now ask "Are both corners ready?" If so, "Cornermen, out of the pit"..."Face your dogs"..."Let Go." The timekeeper shall note the time and write it

down for future reference.

Rule 7: Any dog who jumps the pit is automatically the loser of the contest and no scratches are necessary, and no dog is required or allowed to scratch to a dead dog. The live dog is the winner.

Rule 8: Should either dog become fanged, the referee shall instruct the handlers to take hold of their dogs and try to hold them still so the handler can try to unfang his dog. If this isn't possible, the referee shall separate the dogs with the proper breaking stick and then unfang the dog using a pencil. The referee will then order the handlers to set their dogs down near the center of the Pit and approximately two feet apart. The referee will then order "Let Go." This in no way constitutes a turn or a handle and has no bearing of

the future scratches.

Rule 9: This is to be a fair scratch-in-turn contest until the dogs quit fighting, then rule 13 shall take over. The first dog to turn must scratch first; thereafter they are to scratch alternately(regardless of which dog turns) until one dog fails to scratch and thereby loses the contest.

Rule 10: To be a fair turn, the dog accused of turning must turn his head and shoulders and his front feet away from the opponent and regardless of whether or not the dogs are otherwise touching.

Rule 11: The referee shall call all turns, although either handler may ask for a turn on either dog. If the referee rules there has been a turn, he will instruct the handlers to "pick up free of holds" as soon as possible, and should either dog accidentally get a hold again, the handlers shall set the dogs down immediately and make a continued effort to pick up the dogs, free of holds. When picked up, the dogs must be taken to their respective corners and faced away from their opponent. The Timekeeper shall note the time and take up the count(not out loud) and also the referee shall notify the handler whose dog must scratch.

Rule 12: At 25 seconds, the Timekeeper shall call out "Get Ready." At these instructions each handler must toe his scratch-line and face his dog toward his opponent with his dog's head and shoulders showing fair from between his handler's legs, and the dog's four feet on the canvas floor. At the 30 seconds, the Timekeeper calls out "Let Go." and the handler whose dog must scratch must instantly take his hands away from all contact with his dog and also release all leg pressure from against the dog's body. And the dog must instantly start across and the handler must remain behind his scratch-line until his dog has completed his scratch or the referee has ruled upon it. There is no time limit on the time required to complete this scratch. But, when released at the words "Let Go," the dog must start across at his opponent. He may waver from direct line, fall down, crawl ... drag or push himself across, so long as he makes a continued effort and DOES NOT HESITATE OR STOP until he has reached out and touched his opponent. The opposing handler may release his dog any time he sees fit after the order to "Let Go"; however, he

must do so as soon as the dogs have touched each other.

Rule 12A: This is an alternate rule for those handlers who wish to have their dogs counted out in the corner. It is the same in all respects as Rule 12, except that after 30 seconds, when the Timekeeper calls out "Let Go," the referee shall count our loud, at as near one-second intervals as possible, ONE...TWO...TIME(three seconds), and the dog must be out of his corner and on his way before the referee calls "time," or lose.

Rule 13: If the dogs have apparently quit fighting, whether they are helpless, tired out or curred out, and regardless of whether both dogs are down or one dog is down and the other dog is standing over him, but neither dog has a hold, the referee shall ask it they are willing to scratch-it-out to a win or not. If so, they shall proceed to do so, but if either handler is unwilling, then the referee shall instruct the Timekeeper to note the time and call time in two minutes. If either dog breaks time, then nothing has changed, but if, at the end of the two minutes, the dogs are in the same relative positions and neither dog has a hold, the referee shall order the handlers to handle(PICK UP FREE OF HOLDS) their dogs. When picked up, the dogs shall be taken to their corners and the corner procedure is the same as in a normally called turn and handle. If there have been no previous turns or handles to establish the order of scratching, the dog who has been the longest without a hold(usually the down dog) to be scratched first, then, as soon as free of holds, the dogs shall be picked up and the other dog scratched. Should one dog fail or refuse his scratch, then the dog who failed shall lose the contest. If both dogs fail to scratch, the referee shall call it a no contest, but should both dogs make their initial scratches, the handlers by mutual agreement may ask the referee for a draw decision. The referee will then rule it a draw. Otherwise the contest shall continue, but in this manner: any time the dogs are not in holds and not fighting, the referee shall order the dogs to be handled and scratched alternately until one dog fails to scratch and thereby loses. No attention is paid to turns(after rule 13 is invoked) except as a possible chance to handle. THE REFEREE HAS FULL AUTHORITY AND HIS DECISION IF FINAL IN ALL MATTERS.

Rule 14: Fouls that will be just cause for losing a contest:

A. To leave the pit, with or without the dog before the referee has ruled.

B. To receive anything from outside the pit, or allow anyone outside the pit to touch or assist the dog.

C. To push, drum, throw or spank, or in any way assist a dog across his scratch-line, except by encouraging him by voice.

D. To step across a scratch-line before the dog has completed his scratch or the referee has ruled on it.

E. To stomp on the pit floor or kick the pit sides, yell at of give orders to the opponent's dog, or(in the referee's opinion) do anything to distract or interfere with either dog while scratching or fighting to affect the outcome of the contest.

F. To interfere with the opposing handler or touch either dog until the referee gives an order to handle the dogs.

G. To use a "Rub," "Poison," or "Hypo" o neither dog.

Rule 15: If there should be any outside interference before the contest has been concluded, the referee has full authority to call it a "NO CONTEST" and shall name the time and place the contest is to be resumed and fought out to a referee's decision.(The same referee shall preside.) Also, the referee shall insist that the dogs be washed and weighed (in the referee's presence), and the dogs shall weigh at the weights specified in the original articles of agreement, and to do this as many times as necessary to conclude the contest.

Specific Abuses of Training

It is clear through the description of the various forms of training and through the descriptions of game testing that the process that these dogs are forced into in order to make their owners morning is just as cruel and abusive as the act of forcing them to fight. Especially when you consider that the initial portion of their training is in fact forcing them to fight.

The treadmill, sadly enough is probably the most humane method of training these dogs. Though it is still far from ok, I don’t know about you, but I would not be so happy if someone were to force me to run on a treadmill for a long period of time, especially if I was not able to speak out when I could not longer go on.

The catmill that is described earlier seems incredibly dangerous, as do many other the methods, I would be curious to know how many dogs end up choking or strangling themselves in such a device.

The springpole is really horrible, forcing a dog to jump at something and having it actually grab it so it can then dangle in the air. That couldn’t possibly do anything but harm the dog’s jaw.

The flirtpole is along the same lines as the others, it is just cruel.

The chains is by far one of the worst methods of training mentioned, I do not see how that would help the dogs performance in the least. It is cruel and viscious, this is extremely dangerous to the dogs.

The weights, very similar to the chains are incredibly dangerous and harsh on the dogs. To be permanently attached to a large amount of weights cannot be at all healthy for the dogs!!! Would you want to have a large weight tied around your neck at all times, especially while you were being forced to run lapse??

The bait, as with most of the other forms of training, is incredibly inhumane, it is not only abuse of the dogs but of many other animals as well. These people think that other animals are completely disposable and can be fed to their dogs and killed for their benefit. It is absolutely disgusting!

As for vitamins and supplements, animals are not meant to have things like that injected into them. If you are a loving pet owner and you need to give your dog vitamins to help it recover from an illness, that is one thing, but to make them “perform better” in some psycho’s eyes that are using the dogs for a completely horrific purpose in the first place, it is completely unacceptable.

Training the Dog to Fight

Training a dog for fighting is a disgusting inhumane repulsive act, and I wanted to make sure that everyone is aware of the horrific acts that are involved with the training of these dogs. These dogs are conditioned from a very young age in order to develop their “gameness.” The scope and method of training varies dramatically depending on the level and experience of the dog-fighter. The following implements and techniques are commonly used to train the dogs:

Treadmill: Dogs are run on the treadmills to increase cardiovascular fitness and endurance.

Catmill/Jenny: Apparatus that looks like a carnival horse walker with several beams jetting out from a central rotating pole. The dogs are chained to one beam and another small animal like a cat, small dog, or rabbit, is harnessed to or hung from another beam. The dogs run in circles, chasing the bait. Once the exercise sessions are over, the dogs are usually rewarded with the bait they had been pursuing.

Springpole/Jumppole: A large pole with a spring hanging down to which a rope, tire, or animal hide is affixed that the dogs jump to and dangle from for extended periods of time. This strengthens the jaw muscles and back legs. The same effect is achieved with a simpler spring loaded apparatus hanging from tree limbs. A variation of the springpole is a hanging cage, into which bait animals are placed. The dogs repeatedly lunge up toward the cage.

Flirtpole: A handheld pole with a lure attached. The dogs chase the lure along the ground.

Chains: Dogs have very heavy chains wrapped around their necks, generally in lieu of collars; they build neck and upper body strength by constantly bearing the immense weight of the chains.

Weights: Weights are often affixed to chains and dangled from the dogs necks. This builds neck and upper body strength. Generally, dogs are permanently chained this way. However, sometimes the trainers run them with their weights attached.

Bait: Animals are tied up while the dogs tear them apart or sometimes they are confined in an area to be chased and mauled by the dogs.

Drugs/Vitamins/Supplements: Dogs are given vitamins, supplements and drugs to condition them for or to incite them to fight. Commonly utilized vitamins, supplements, and drugs include: iron/liver extract; vitamin B-12; Provim; Magnum supplement; hormones (testosterone, Propionate, Repotest, Probolic Oil); weight-gain supplements; creatine monohydrate; speed; steroids (Winstrol V, Dinabol, Equipose); and cocaine.

The dogs are trained against one another and against older, more experienced dogs. In the early stages of training, the dogs are incited to lunge at each other without touching and engage in quick, controlled fights called “rolls” or “bumps.” Once the dogs appear match ready, they are pitted against stronger dogs to test their “gameness" or tenacity in the face of exhaustion and impending defeat. If the dogs pass the test, they are deemed ready to fight.

This is absolutely disgusting!!! No person in their right mind would ever consider this to be training a dog. I mean legitimate training, because this is certainly not, this is abusing a dog in order to force them to meet your disgusting standards!!

Armitage's Notes on Picking a Dog

So after teaching sicko’s how to test their dogs, he goes on to telling them how to choose which of the dogs that are actually left alive should be selected for “pit purposes.” This is another one of the unbelievable sections of the book that horrifies me that people are interested in learning about for their own activities.

I much prefer a good dog who is rough and a good wrestler and a fair biter to the easy going, slow type, even if the last named is a hard biter. If the rough dog is put in good shape he will lick the other dog most every time. A nose fighting dog is a hard animal to beat, especially if he is a game one. In all my experience I have never seen a dog break another dog’s leg, just “snapped it off” as I have had so many tell me about this dog and that dog breaking the other dog’s legs or shoulder. I have seen dogs fracture a paw or a joint, but never have I seen a leg dangling uselessly.

The boring in type with that “do or die” willingness is the best of all. The loafer that gets a hold and hangs on as if he wins going to sleep, I kick out just as soon as I can. I have tried out dogs, and while they were fighting I have become disgusted that I could have killed them and thought nothing of it. I have tried out dogs that would hardly fight a lick, and they would have their tails between their legs, then when you separate them and take them to their corners, they would cross the pit in a rush to the other dog. Sometimes this kind will not take a hold after crossing, and of course they should never be fought for money.

Dog Fighter's View on Game Testing

Armitage has a section of his book dedicated to “Schooling a Young Dog or Pup and Testing Out A Dog for His Gameness.” In this section he discusses a variety of aspects involved in the trainging of the dog, which I will give a more detailed description of in a future blog. What I wanted to share with you in this post is the disgusting act of “gametesting,” which is essentially forcing a young or unprepared dog to fight another dog in order to see whether or not it could potentially be a fighter. This is something that I feel Armitage describes in a way that I would never be able to, he uses his personal experience and opinions in order to advise others of how to do this testing. Take a look at his thoughts:

In trying out or in testing a dog for gameness, I have found out that you can determine this factor in less time with two dogs than you can with one. I will give you an example of this. I have tried out a certain dog against one dog and he fought for 40 minutes or an hour. I have tried the same dog against the same animal he went the 40 or 60 minutes against, and let him go only 30 minutes, then separated them, sponged him out and put a fresh dog against him and had him stop or quit cold inside of 10 minutes. I have seen dogs that would fight for a couple of hours against one dog, but when tried out against alternated dogs they would not stand the gaff for 40 minutes. Therefore, if you want to be sure of your dog’s gameness when you send him into the pit with your money bet on him, try him out thoroughly beforehand, and you will find out to your satisfaction that you will not be disappointed so often by having one of your dogs quite on you. A man does not feel nearly so badly is he loses with a game dog as he does if he loses with one that quits, or as the Pit men call them “curs.”

Another thing, whenever you try out a dog of bitch for gameness, do not us a dog against a bitch, or vice versa, because I have seen them let up on the opposite sex lots of times, but when put against their own sex they went the limit. Now get this into your head – every time you try a dog severely, you have just taken that much more out of that dog’s system. A dog is just the same as a man, or a game cock, the more he is cut up, beaten up, and abuses, so much more vitality is taken away from him and his nervous system is weakened that much more. If you doubt my word, just ask some old-time prize fighter if he was ever as good after taking a hard beating as he was before he took it.

Give your dog one good test and call that enough. Then match him after he has had a rest of at least sixty days. Some dogs will not get over a severe tryout for months. It all depends on how hard they had to take it. During my career I put 4 dogs on one dog at the same time to test him out, and he cam through it like a real warrior. I never got this dog matched, as he lost an eye in the tryout and died later, on my place of old age.

I put three dogs against the old dog I fought years ago known as Armitage’s Kager or Old Tramp, when I tested him out, and when I fought him for a purse of $1,000.00. I knew they would have to kill him to win, so it was all up to me to put him in A-1 shape, which I did, and he beat a real high-class dog in 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Always, when you intend to test a dog out thoroughly, put him in shape for at least 2 weeks. Work him just as if you were going to place your money on him. If your dog has no wind, do not expect him to go the route. I have seen dog’s condemned as curs because they would not cross the pit, when the fact was that they were choking to death for air, gasping with a husky noise in their throats. DO not ask an animal to do what a human cannot do. Man or beast must have good wind, and to have good wind you must have good lung power in any contest where your breathing apparatus is going to be tested out. Therefore, I want to warn all of you beginners or amateurs, if your dog chokes up or has poor lung power after he is thinned out, discard him from your list as a prospect to bet your money on. It is very seldom that I ever take another’s word for a dog’s gameness and fighting ability when I am going to train him and bet my hard earned money on him, as I have been fooled too often. Hence I try them out to my satisfaction, and many a dog has died from the test I gave them. For this I was sorry, and did everything in my power to try and save them, but it was in some cases too late, for the strain on their system was too severe. I have tried out several dogs (the term “dog” here means dog or bitch) in my time that one would think to be world beaters. They would fight like a house afire for 25 minutes, then quite. I know of two occasions where I tried out a dog and a bitch years apart, put them to the test and they quit. Then they died, not from the punishment they took, but because it just seemed to break their hearts when they had to be the under dog.

Thirty Years With Fighting Dogs; Book on Dog Fighting?!??

I recently ordered a book from Amazon entitled Thirty Years with Fighting Dogs, it was written in 1936 by a man named George C. Armitage who got into dog fighting in about 1905 and became very well versed on the topic and the owner of many successful fighting dogs. He wanted to be able to answer people’s questions about how to go about training and fighting dogs and give his peers some advice. He also includes many of the fights that he has seen and other major names in dog fighting in his time.

This book is essentially a disgusting guide to being an inhumane, abusive dog fighter and that was exactly his purpose in writing the book. In his introduction he says: “I especially hope that it will prove of benefit to the amateurs and beginners in the game. If my knowledge and my experience help them over the rough spots in this rough game, I will be satisfied that it has been a good job well done.”

I do not care how long ago this book was written; the fact that it is still available is horrifying. I got it to use as an example of the fact that there really are guides as to how to be a dog fighter, but you know that there are still some freaks out there who get their hands on this book to use it in the way that Armitage initially intended it for. There should not be any form of support for these people!!

I believe the concept behind the book is absolutely horrible, but it has given me a tremendous amount of disturbing information and insight into the disgusting “game.” Which is why I will be using this book as a main source in my blog, it really emphasizes the points that I have been trying to make about the sick and twisted world that these people live in and the disturbed minds that they have.

Gametesting

Gametesting is one so called process that is used to see if a dog is capable of being put in the pit to fight. One dog advocate describes it in this excerpt below.

The American Pit Bull Terrier's story is mired in sad reality. Some fanciers, many who call themselves "dogmen", claim that in order to produce the real APBT, the dogs must be fought so they can prove their gameness (i.e. willingness to keep going despite pain and exhaustion). In their opinion, only the candidates that don't quit a fight are true representatives of the breed and should be bred - The others are called "curs" and eliminated.

Those people firmly believe that the abolishment of "Gametesting" would destroy the APBT breed. They therefore feel completely justified to continue exploiting dogs by forcing them into the worse possible form of abuse. Are they right?

To put things in perspective, let me share my personal experience. I own several "Pet Bulls", all rescue dogs of unknown background. One or two of them "may" be game (I will never know since I don't "test" my dogs), but the rest would most likely qualify as curs since true game dogs are far in between. This means that most of my dogs hopefully have enough survival instinct to value their life more than to "finish" a fight. Dogmen would call them "quitters", I call them "winners". However, since they are probably not game enough according to fanciers of that bloody sport, they are not worthy of their admiration. I can tell you that my dogs, game or not, are wonderful companions and I am very proud of them. Ironically, they would have received a bullet in the head in the yard of any dogman due to their lack or absence of gameness... None sense? I think so too.

Many Pit Bull lovers are completely disgusted by the barbarian practice of dog fighting and don't hesitate to raise a strong voice against this terrible form of animal cruelty. Unfortunately some other people are being influenced by pro-fighting material they read in books and on the net, and decide to close their eyes. Some will even encourage this nonsense to continue by supporting the men and women who throw these dogs in the pit and watch them tear each other apart in order to test their gameness. Some Pit Bull owners push the paradox as far as disapproving dog fighting publicly, but will only buy dogs from gametested lines (i.e.: The breeding stock is fought before being allowed to reproduce). Hypocrisy at its best!

I completely agree with all that Veronique Chesser says in this excerpt and the rest of her website. She is an incredible Pit Bull lover and her website offers a tremendous amount of vital information. It is a wonderful site and one that you should definitely take a look at…. www.pitbullsontheweb.com

Types of Dog Fighting

Law enforcement typically divides dog fighting into three different categories: street, hobby and professional.

Street fighters typically have their dogs fight in back alleys, corners or playgrounds.

Hobby fighters might own a few dogs and organize fights with a close group of friends.

Professionals are organized and stealthy, planning fights months in advance for large sums of money. They earn money from breeding and selling dogs and putting them in fights.

Sometimes it can actually be the street fighters that cause the most problems. At one point in a neighborhood in Detroit, the U.S. Postal Service temporarily halted mail delivery for close to two months. One postmaster said that there were fights occurring in the neighborhood two to three times a week during the day.

It is especially bad in Detroit, but that does not change the fact that dog fighting is so prevalent and popular that it needs to and can be split into three categories. Not to mention the fact that one of the categories is “hobby fighting,” I would love to meet someone who considers dog fighting to be one of their hobbies; I have a few things to say to them!!!

As for street fighters, they should find something better to do in their spare time!!!

And professionals, they are by far the worse; they are disgusting human beings that have absolutely no humanity. Why would you want to earn your living from torturing animals and helping others to torture animals? These people are sick and twisted and they don’t deserve any money!!